Day Ten: Friday, July 4, 2014

Hike 2.6 miles to Piute Pass Trail, then 12.4 miles to Piute Pass (11,423’), then approx 1.0 mile to little lake beyond Pass. Approx 16.0 miles. Approx 3450’ elevation gain. Sleep at 10,958’.

Pillsbury and I awoke early again, as was our way. With breakfast (and coffee for me, yum) behind us, we begin our walk along the Evolution Creek canyon, passing deer and marmot out for the morning play. It was lovely. In 2.5 miles we came to a sign announcing that we were leaving Kings Canyon National Park. I remember when a similar sign told me I had entered the Park! I had actually walked through the entire thing from south to north!

We crossed Piute Creek on a steel trestle bridge, and came immediately upon my exit trail to Piute Pass. Not a happy moment, actually! We both were sad that our hiking days together were done, at least for now. Pillsbury took a selfie of us to mark this moment, and we gave each other a big hug. Fighting tears I said, “You’ve taught me a lot.” To which she replied, “You’ve taught me a lot, too.” And that’s how we parted.

 

Pillsbury by an ancient cedar tree struggling to survive on the windy hillside. Photo from Pillsbury.

Our last parting photo as I take Piute Pass out. Photo by Pillsbury.

I marched right up the steep trail to Piute Pass in my own solid pace. My legs felt strong and dependable. I reflected on how I was so incredibly grateful for my newfound friendship with Pillsbury. She had given me my PCT training-wheels back in the beginning when I met her on my Day One Solo, and then she just trusted that I had the chutzpah to do this kind of hiking. She gave me PCT hiking tips, gear tips, and encouragement. I won’t forget this angel on the trail. Without ever having met her I would not have experienced nearly so much these last 10 days. And the serendipity of it was, once again, a reminder of how Divine Mother takes care of me, giving me everything I need at the time that I need it. Besides, she said I would make any PCT hiker proud!  ;-)

It was 12.4 miles of up and more up, about 3800’ of gain to get to Piute Pass. (More than I had thought when I took the map from Brian.) Good thing my pack is at its lightest! There were lots of wooded areas along the way, which also translates to lots of mosquitoes. I usually didn’t tarry long in these places, though the Piute creek just there, bubbling along next to the trail, was lovely. The interesting thing now, at the end of my trip, is that I better understand my limits. My longest day on this journey was 19 miles, and I could do it. I’d probably aim for more like 15-17 miles for a day on future trips, but I need to also realize that I did this in 11 days without 2 months already under my belt for experience. If I were to hike more consistently over time, I might actually knock out those regular 20 mile PCT days. Who knows. But I was able to do far more than I ever anticipated.

I reached a high meadow beyond the forest at 2:00pm, and I had thought to hike until I cleared the forest and got away from the mosquitoes. This place was perfect, with several shallow meandering bubbling creeks. I followed one creek upstream after it bisected the trail, in hopes to find a secluded place for a bath. I needed to clean up, since tomorrow I would be leaving the trail and I had neglected one important thing in pre-planning – to pack extra clothes in the car to change into from my daily hiking clothes. This meant I will be wearing these clothes all the way home, which is more than a 6-hour drive. Ug. Not that I minded so much, but the people taking my money at the bakery and at Starbucks might!

I found a lovely spot by the creek in the alpine sunshine and took off all my clothes. I examined the sunburn that I had been nursing along on my tummy for the last 5 days; it now has tiny water blisters that have yet to pop. I washed out each item of clothing in the stream (no soap, so I just did the best I could), and hung them in a bush to dry. It’s warm, and I estimate the clothes will be dry in an hour or so. Then me next….scrub, scrub! Trying to look like a real person and not a dirty hiker! My hands are bronze tan, but they also have a different hue to them, too…..one of dirt embedded deep into the cracks and into the skin. It doesn’t come off. My thumbs have blisters, so I can’t rub hard, and the skin has cracked open in various places from getting too dry. The dirt loves these places. Oh well, trying to be unstinky is the highest objective right now.

I meditate for an hour. So blissful. So surrounded by the Divine. This time I sit in my wind jacket and pants, to avoid another high-altitude sunburn.

More beautiful alpine flowers in the high meadows

After about 90 minutes I put on my clothes, some still damp but fine to wear. They will dry as I walk. I continue hiking to Piute Pass. The scenery and serenity here is amazing. So divinely peaceful. I will be so sad to leave it tomorrow.

I’m now watching my food rations. Today’s food reserve came from stealing from future days to create a new food day in order to stay out one day longer than at first planned. My food supply is getting thin now, such that tick-tacks and altoids are considered a main calorie source while I continue hiking. I’m figuring on just a nut bar for breakfast tomorrow, plus a ration of coffee (which amounts to about 2/3 cup, but enough to get me started for the day), and to make it to Schat’s Bakery in Bishop for that cheese-tomato breakfast bagel they have there. Yum. And a real cup of coffee. The thought of tomorrow’s food allows me to forgo today’s hunger.

I crest the Pass at around 5:00pm, and celebrate with one of my last ginger hard candies. Too windy to stay, I look back to where I’ve just come from, say goodbye to the deep canyons of Kings Canyon National Park, and drop down the East side.

About 45 minutes later I arrive at the first lake, and my knees are telling me it is time to quit. I make camp, and heat water for a cup of tea. This, and a nut bar, is dinner. Another cup of tea with the last piece of toffee is dessert. And I’m happy beyond compare.

 

Approaching Piute Pass up ahead.

The view of my little lake with the sun setting is splendid. It is the 4^th of July, and I’ve seen so few people today. Every atom, every blade of grass, gust of wind, buzzing mosquito, playful ground squirrel, cloud in the sky, bubbling creek, rocks and mountain passes, tree…..all these things breath the creative in and out breath of the Divine. I am so much a part of it. I listen to one bird call repeatedly for a mate, with no reply. The sentry mountain behind the lake keeps careful watch over the entire mountain ecosystem, of which I am for this moment a part. I find myself melting into the oneness with it, and having some fear of reintegration to the “world of men” tomorrow. “That world” seems foreign to me at this moment, too busy, too frenetic, too chaotic. I head to bed while the sun is still setting and fall deeply asleep.